Tuesday, March 19, 2013
An early start to the cold morning found us again walking the main calle into town to the Bodega Aurora for a big breakfast. We did this many times in 2010. We decided to leave this wonderful spot and the friendly campers and move on to Ajijic.
Many of the wonderful Canadians and Americans we met talked to us in the morning. One couple even came over to say goodbye before they left. We left Patzcuaro with some regret, but first we drove downtown. We passed the two main squares and the big market. This is a town with red and white buildings. Somehow we got turned around and it took us awhile to get out of town. We ate our Oaxaca cheese sandwiches and drove on to Ajijic. Our trip took longer than expected because of all the towns and the slowing down.
It was such a treat to arrive at Ajijic. We are slightly familiar with it. We checked out a guest cottage of an exceptional artist in town. Cathy C. had a cat, so that did not work. Once we found Angel Flores Guest House, we were pleased with the big room and huge garden.
Wednesday, March 20 2013
We wanted to find a sunny spot in which to eat our breakfast – the second mirador, says Von Chica, the dachshund, who was outside our door when we woke up and joined us for breakfast. Skip, our host, showed us around his property, showing us the various miradors, the stairs wrapping around his fireplace, naming and discussing various plants. A delightful morning!
We walked for coffee to a great smelling café across from the big church. The Lake Chapala Society garden grounds were our next stop We wanted to check out the library and what activities were being offered. We walked the malecón and had lunch or the other way around. Either way, we felt tired and returned to rest (which neither of us did.)
Off we went to supper, with no real plan, but ended up at the number one rated place in town by Trip Advisor. Wow – great homemade ravioli with cheese and a basil and Roquefort topping.
Thursday, March 21, 2013
We ate breakfast on a little patio in the garden in front of our room. We were all ready by nine, as the long term guest, Micky (from Florida) had offered to take us on a hike up the hill in back of Ajijic to the chapel. It was dusty, with switchbacks on the path all the way up. The bushes are still waiting for their leaves to return. The views were spectacular, of the lake, mountains and village. You could hear children playing and animal noises. Obviously the trek down was easier and faster.
We walked to La Una Restaurant – great service in a walled small garden setting – lovely. We were then off to the Ajijic Society for the Arts juried show. Wonderful art, many talented, skilled artists – even fibre artists – with many different styles of painting and types of mediums. I didn’t necessarily agree with the judging. We danced to the lovely music in this huge arty building.
We were happy to meet Raul, our real estate agent. He cheerfully guided us through a discussion of neighborhoods or subdivisions of Lakeside.
Friday, March 22, 2013
We walked lots today. Our first outing was a walk to La Huerta Market. We walked along the Carretera (main highway), staying in the shade as much as possible. We were able to mostly stay off the road, but the walking route was a bit uneven or rugged. We saw Rancho del Oreo, where Ken had his cake and coffee. We had to stop for some. Cats and dogs were our walking companions. Once at the La Huerta Market, we found sellers of jewelry, rugs, fancy food, books, embroidery, etc. The building itself was huge and impressive. We then walked to Tio Domingo’s. Not enough trees for our taste. We did see horses by the lake. We took the bus back to Ajijic – 10 pesos each for the fare.
A shower cooled us off, after the dusty, hot morning. Once rested, we were off to San Antonio Tlayacapan. We walked through La Floresta – beautiful tree lined streets. One boulevard had horses tied up to the trees. We were again, very struck by La Floresta. We ate at Mario’s in San Antonio – very delicious authentic Mexican food. Again we returned by bus. It was a first class bus.
Saturday, March 23, 2013
We looked for an art auction, but didn’t find it. That was not a concern. We kept walking down Independencia, which turned into another street in name, all the way until it turned into the highway. We walked past some tree lined streets and passed Mario’s Restaurant, where we stopped for coffee and agua fresca. Along the way in La Floresta, we met a couple from Oregon, Cathy and Larry, who actually want to move to BC, Canada.. We met them by the boulevard providing horseback rides.
Since the town of Chapala was our goal, we finished our journey by bus. Our final stop was across the street from the Superior Restaurant. We walked the malecón east and west, with all its vendors. We walked past the bed and breakfast where we stayed in 2010. We did a bit more walking and bench sitting – once in front of the church and a horse and rider. Tiredness had set in. Off to Ajijic on a luxury bus. It had pull downs to rest your legs on plus the seats leaned back.
Back at the guest house we were greeted by only three of the dogs. We rested, cleaned up, and were off for ice cream. The square seemed more lively. Before ice cream we went for a very authentic Mexican meal at “The Hole in the Wall.”
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Being Sunday, we thought we should go out for breakfast. We did, at “La Una.” It was pretty busy back in that sweet little garden. Then we headed down Independencia, going west. We’d gone east yesterday. We walked through authentic Mexican neighborhoods, peppered with huge trees, etc. Just around break time we found a huge old hotel and wandered the grounds and hallways.
We saw two open houses – one new one, well designed, great use of the roof for a mirador. The other was small, old and depressing. Even a reno couldn’t help.
Beyond that our wanderings took us past huge Norte Americano homes adjacent to bigger tracts of land with very small, partly built homes. These small Mexican farms had chickens, horses, dogs, etc. Again Google maps are not always accurate!
Once back at the guest house, we took advantage of the cool garden. Skip came out to talk to us. He has lived in the Ajijic area for awhile now. He has sage advice along with entertaining stories. He showed us his living room with his furniture made right here in Ajijic. Nicky and Misha, the well-trained dogs, joined us. A decision was made to walk in to the Egyptian restaurant in town – delicious. The staff let us sit in chairs I the front of the restaurant to watch the parade. The City put down alfalfa on the road. After a considerable wait, a donkey and men dressed in costumes proceeded toward the church. It was Palm Sunday. This is a depiction from the Bible. There were hundred of people following them. The alfalfa got picked up for cattle feed. The square was free and lively.
Monday, March 25, 2013
The little Chihuahua, “Binky” had not returned. It saddened us both. Hope he comes home soon safely. Upper Chula vista was our destination for the morning. We took a bus to the bottom of the hill and walked up to the top. Great exercise will be my comment; not something you would want to do consistently. We went to an estate sale in a house that had a failing foundation. There were massive cracks in the walls and floors. Gorgeous, classy furnishings. The prices were very high, not like NOB. We descended the hill empty handed, going to the Hole in One market.
We met our real estate agent and he drove us to a new build in Riberas de Pilar. Too small of a yard. Then we went to the Racquet Club. We drove up a slightly more gentle hill than the one this morning to the home of an artist. Beautiful touches of faux paint from the bronze cupola to the sky scene in the bedroom. There was an artist studio on the lower level. It had a gourmet kitchen, with a warming drawer and granite counters. Amazing yard and views. The actual club house provided a big, mineral hot springs pool, tennis courts, club house with events, etc. Our next home visit was a bit surrealistic. I saw and admired this one on-line. Huge arched windows in the living room, tasteful, class furnishings and a big gourmet kitchen were only some of the highlights. It was so amazing.
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
We were off to the Wednesday market or “tianguis” on Revolution. It was not too far to walk, at least compared to walks we have done. It is a true Mexican market, as most vendors are Mexicans. It was tricky maneuvering on the cobblestones. It was held on a street. There were lots of gringo buyers. There were Mexicans in costume too. People of all descriptions were friendly. Ken quickly went through the market, then went for coffee at a restaurant on the corner.
Ken had to get a few items from Walmart, so this was our next walking destination. This Walmart has much better produce than most. It, of course, has a wide selection of Mexican spices, sauces and dried peppers.
This day we were sure to eat before we went off with Raul. He came and joined us for lunch. We looked at property in La Floresta. Great big flat piece of land across from the Yacht Club. We looked at a house with an amazing yard and pool in Upper La Floresta. It had three big old avocado trees. The house sitter gave us some avocados off of it. The house had a Grant Leier painting – the owners must be from our neck of the woods or Edmonton. From here we toured a realtor’s home with a huge mirador. Inside the main floor had a spiral staircase. Racquet Club was our next stop. We were shown around the next amazing art centered home by the owners. Rag rolled walls, colour and art everywhere. The pool had been covered up, but could be reserved. We inspected the club house in this area and a piece of property. Quite flat with views.
Thursday, March 28, 2013
A late start to our day. Ken, for once, being the cause. He just felt dopy this morning before having coffee. For once I got ready quickly and was waiting.
La Una got our lunch money, even though we actually ate breakfast. Then I had a bad hankering for a café frio. In the cafe I spotted a Yorkshire terrier who just had a great haircut His owner, Dawna, from Victoria, BC, told me about him – non-shedding, not noisy, can fit under the seat of a plane, etc. She gave me the breeder’s name, etc. I want one! Ken and I parted ways. He conducted phone business for the radio station. I went on a shopping spree. Now is it referred to as a “spree” if you actually buy nothing? The shop owners were very friendly and not pushy! A wide variety of art was available. I must bet back to my arty ways. Horses were prancing down the street. Crowds of people gathered. It was getting busy in Ajijic for Easter weekend.
For supper we attended the ”Breakfast Club.” Almost 40 or 50 people gathered at the Peacock Garden Restaurant. There were tables set up for us. We had pre-ordered our meal. The highlight was meeting so many wonderful people all at once. It was a big, beautiful, well manicured garden with peacocks and chickens. A long walk along the malecón found us cooling off and discussing the information shared at the “Breakfast Club.” It will be busy in town tomorrow.
Friday, March 29, 2013
Raul took us around to look at lots. He is a very good and busy realtor, even working today, Good Friday. Lots are generally about the same price here as they are on our island at home Seems pretty expensive to me. We looked in Ajijic, Chula Vista, La Floresta, etc. Nothing took our breath away except the view in Chula Vista, much too high up.
We finally found “Super Lake.” It is a grocery store which stocks regular food as well as special foods that gringos might want – Thai food ingredients, soy products (tetra pack tofu), etc. Then we walked almost to Centro of San Antonio. Mardy, someone who volunteered to give us home building guidance, invited us to his owner-built home. Wonderful touches – handmade arched, wooden doors and windows, tiles outside that look like pebbles. He had sage advice – be clear on what you want or the trades people will do it their way. His friendly wife found our conversation and showed me her kitchen.
At the malecón of Ajijic were many people. We found a spot with a lake, mountain and malecón view and sat to rest. By the skateboard park, Ken held out a 50 peso bill, kneeling on the wall. One boy actually skated up the half pipe and gained ownership of the money. We ate supper off the street. My supper was steamed veggies with cream and cheese.
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Today I phoned a very good friend, in fact my best friend, back home. She too broke her arm, but in two places and it is her left arm. It seemed odd that we both had similar injuries. It did sound like her’s was much worse, at least more painful at the beginning (March 7th).
We had an actual late start to the day, not out and about until after 1:00 pm. We actually fired up “Pepe” the van. It turned over right away. Off we went to “Frieda Azul” for one of the best meals I have had in Ajijic. It as a special Lent meal of Mexican vegetarian delights, not to mention Pescado Veracruzana.
Then came shopping. Mostly Ken purchased some alcohol for back home. Liquor back in Canada is very expensive and it is very cheap here, so we make a purchase every trip. We went to a liquor store near Super Lake and Salvador’s Restaurant. We were invited to the home of a husband and wife who live in Ajijic, but bought and remodeled a home in Chapala. Bob and Louise have a charming, wonderful home. It had a rental suite at the front. The second bedroom is also a unit unto itself. The house had a dramatic entrance. The garden had lots of fruit trees and was huge, plus a pool that wasn’t being used. He actually had two lots. The water levels of Lake Chapala are low. We walked from the viewing of the lovely home to the lake and out to what was an island. We drove back at dusk. It was very hot on our walk around Ajijic square and the malecón cooled us off.
Sunday, March 31, 2013
We hung out here at the Angel Flores Guest House until noon. Not sure what we did, but lazing around comes to mind. Ken needed boxes to pack up some of our purchases. We walked to a handy tienda and took three banana boxes for fifteen pesos. Iced coffee was our next purchase – better than Starbucks! By then even wandering around in the shade seemed too hot! We got back to the Guest House as quickly as we could (34° C – we are, or at least I am, wimpy in heat!)
Once back in Skip’s amazing and huge garden, we just sat and chatted with the other guests. Mabel and her husband were Canadians from Crow’s Nest Pass area. We discussed past travel adventures and what we have done lately in Ajijic and Chapala. Niki joined us, along with Misha. We must have sat there for three hours. At some point Ken went and packed. Having other Norte Americanos to talk with is a new addition to our Mexican experience. It is a good way to learn and also be able to share some of our knowledge. The cool of the evening here was very pleasant out on the malecón and at the village centre.
Monday, April 1, 2013
We drove to El Torito Mall. Ken needed some different cardboard boxes. Most importantly, we were meeting a couple at Salvador’s for coffee, Kathy & Bob. Kathy is the lady who has been typing our blog notes at this time. Hi Kathy, it was great meeting you and Bob. It was great talking to someone about the Ajijic area. Bob had told Ken where to buy good coffee in Chapala, so off we drove to that area. We continued to run errands and went to the Chapala Monday Market. The market was big, not a lot of artisans. It was way too hot for a fun time at the market.
We doubled back to Super Lake to get a gift for my sister, Charlene. We took the van back to Angel Flores. We walked to meet Raul for lunch. Raul was sitting in an office of an architect, whom he wanted us to meet. It was the architect that built Skip’s house. We took Raul out for lunch at Ajijic Tango. He has been such an amazing real estate agent, finding excellent homes and properties for us to look at. He took us to look at one last wonderful home – a bargain, but we just can’t purchase now. It was supper when we said our goodbyes to Raul. We were off to see the immigration lawyer. Even though it was late, she was working – seemed efficient.
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
We are moving on to Guanajuato today. I’d love to stay longer, with all the wonderful people we have met and the great places we have gone. We will return! After heartfelt farewells until fall, we were finally on off. I say finally, because our packing was lengthy.
Google Maps found us a better route today, using toll roads. Great highways, no topes. Once we got lost near Guadalajara. It appeared that some Municipal Police came to our aid. We followed them and returned unscathed to our original route.
Even though we drove from Canada, I felt impatient with our approximately four hour drive. It was hot in the car and we ate too many snacky pieces of junk food. We easily found our hotel. We got a premo room on the ground floor by the pool. We rode the bus into Centro, and since we were just here in July we got our bearings quickly. Guanajuato is a clean, extremely well kept colonial city – what a gem! The streets were busy with people and a festival was about to begin tomorrow. We saw the work of many indigenous artisans. It was interesting to see the huge colonial buildings lit up for the evening.
