Zacatecas, Zacatecas - Thank Heavens for Zacatecas (week two)

Sunday August 10
We awoke early in our wonderful hotel accommodations. It was a joy getting ready this morning in a real room. I then went and took pictures of aguava plants in the hotel garden. We took the Teleferico over to LaBufa.





At La Bufa we wondered around the grounds, took in the museum which was about the battle (1914) or revolution here at Zacatecus. We looked at the old church (1700's), etc.



We were by that time a bit peckish and ate at a clean looking restaurant vender. I had a potato taco and Ken had what he described as a great hamburger. We walked down the La Bufa hill on the wide, cobblestone walkway. It has big crosses every once in a while, Ken says they represent the stations of the cross.





We walked towards the centre of town and luckily for Ken ended up near the bakery. I got to pet the pooch I like so much. I found out he is really a "she"...so cute for a mutt. She could tell I liked her.









We went on to the Museo Francisco Goitia a famed artist. The art of Pedro and Raphel Cornell were also on display. We weren't allowed to take pictures on the first floor where all the really good art was. We took a siesta in the colorful garden.













Then we walked across town to Mina El Eden to make some tourist type purchases.








Then back walking again to another part of town to the mask museum. This was a oops, because I wanted to buy a t-shirt at a different museum. By this time of day and with hours of walking we were both exhausted and were just plowing through, not many thought processes working. Ken did take me to the museum of abstract art to get my t-shirt.

Continuing on even though we were really exhausted we walked to La Casona de La Abue (which we nick named "rice and beans") for beer then to another area for supper at Los Dorados De Villa. At the end of this extreme walk about day we walked up the hill from Centro to the hotel. I fell asleep watching TV.







Saturday August 9
I"d had it with the rain and camping! We are moving into the hotel. The bell boy carts almost all of our belongings into the hotel room, Rubbermaid boxes, food and all. We went into the business center of the Hotel, hung out there and ate breakfast there. Once the room was made up we went and got ready to go out. It was so nice to have a room and a bathroom attached to it. I felt like a queen being able to sit on the bed in comfort. This was the latest we went down the hill. We went to "no soup for you" _ Los Dorados De Villa. This restaurant has budgies in the waiting room for the bathroom. It is a tall three story vertical tunnel with old branches, some windows and birdhouses – a budgies dream set up
.
We hung out in Alameda Park for a while then finished walking to mina El Eden. You go underground so you have to dress for the experience. You are given a hard hat with a hair net like thing. The hair net is to keep you from getting lice (yeah, right). You were taken in a small pediatrician train to a main area. Lots of vignettes of miners,a santo to children, etc. There is an underground area that is converted into a disco by night, looked interesting.










Ken, of course, had to go against the rules and had us leave our group to find a different exit near our hotel. We walked quite a ways and a worker told us we had to go back. I personally was glad to get out from the tunnels and be in the fresh air.


Friday August 8
We had a really lazy, yucky day. To start the day off right it was too cold to eat out in the hotel garden so our other option was eating in the van. Keep in mind the van has all the blinds up on the windows including the front sun screens (what sun you ask on this cloudy day– the sun we usually have). Then neither of us wanted to go to the lobby and blog, etc. We get good wifi in the van so stayed in the van. I got lots of typing done and a bit of painting. No sign of the parts but the tracking on USPS.com website shows the package cleared Customs and was in San Luis Potosi last night, not far from us, maybe today is our lucky day. Here is not a bad spot, great food, good people, but we both want to go on and put the repair behind us.

In getting ready to go, Ken thought to start the van and charge the battery again. This time a no go, we needed a boost. The staff at the hotel don't have cables so as it turns out one of the hotels managers was having his car repaired and a mechanic was already coming. Turns out this was the case and about a half an hour later two guys showed up and were working on the bosses VW. After the boost Ken spoke to the older guy who identified himself as a teller mechanico. Ken was able to explain the repair required for the van and asked how much for the repair. It turns out the mechanic only wants us to buy him an air filter housing for his truck, Ken figures about $40 - 70 bucks in Canada. We waited around for the van to charge up the battery (about an hour).
I had a nap which is becoming habit forming.

Finally we had to eat and Ken wanted Chinese food. The building housing the Chinese restaurant was fabulous – stone plinth blocks around the doors and windows and, the stone walls were at least twenty feet high. Food – not so fabulous! Two thumbs way down from Donna!!!

After eating that big meal and a bit of a walk about Ken wanted to go...guess....yes, you are correct. He wanted to go to the bakery. While Ken consumed, it rained buckets. We thought it would let up, but it did not. I felt so bad for the old beggar man and his dog. The dog was in a box under a stone bench. The old man was eating in a restaurant. Finally we got out the umbrellas and walked part way home. Some areas had rivers of water washing down the streets.



We finished the day with a taxi ride home. It had been difficult getting a taxi because of the rain. As we were trying to hail a taxi, a group of young people with instruments came singing down the street. We waved our umbrellas at them in the shear joy they were spreading. After being picked up we drove by the Alameda Park and saw the group of young people still playing their instruments in the rain. From somewhere a donkey had appeared with them in full saddle. The things you see and do not understand in Mexico.

It rained hard most of the night and was very noisy in the van.


Thursday August 7
In the morning we both blogged for a short time. I was anxious to get away from the hotel and go do something. We thought we should get ready to go before the parts arrived. We finally got the tracking number for the parts and found out they were in Guadalajara. We needed to do the laundry, find out the prices of mango juice, sugar and pick up some propane. So much laundry had accumulated that we really didn't like the idea of hauling it down the hill. Our bus karma is fabulous. We walked out to the the adjoining Teleferico to see no cabs, but a bus was there, delayed waiting for a truck to move out of the way. Ken had the 7 pesos in his pocket and away we went on another bus ride. We dropped off the laundry and headed to our new favorite restaurant Casona de la Abue (Rice and Beans).

Heading back to the bus stop by VIPS; Ken asked the drivers which bus to Guadalupe as we were headed for Walmart which was on that way. Looking around for bus ruta dos we boarded. Now the price on the window says $5 which I'm not sure is the price as Ken gave the usual $7 pesos and the driver accepted. The bus drivers may have a sliding scale. This driver was interested in making time, we don't know why, but at the halfway point to our journey, speeding by, he handed off a time card to another man that ran with it to a time clock and punched it. The driver seemed more relaxed after that. We asked the driver about WalMart and he dropped us off as close as he could. Zacatecas is a tourist town for Mexicans and the service staff treated us real well.

WalMart and Soriana were across from each other. They are similar to our big box stores except in two ways I can see. The grocery baggers here are elementary school boys and the foods are different. The produce has varieties we never or seldom see and the soy milks are almost all mixed with juice.
Ken noted the prices of mango juice and sugar (9.9 pesos per Kg) we found WalMart cheaper on some of the items.

We walked to the circus we saw the previous hike to Guadalupe. I had to see the Camel; I had to say goodbye. The circus show was to begin shortly and there was a large line up to get in. we scooted around and had a nice visit. Others, we saw were sneaking in around the fences and getting real close to the buffaloes and bulls. They were caught and herded along to the fence. Then, it started to rain and we headed back to the bus stop for our next bus ride, this one was uneventful.

We stopped into Sanborns for a light supper, picked up our laundry and headed home. We seem to be able to feed ourselves supper for under $4.


Wednesday August 6
We got up late, in fact I woke up because the van was getting too hot to be inside. I might have been extra hot because of my sunburn. I am covering up today.

Ken discovered more in-depth features of Google's Picasa for our blog pictures. He will describe it in the the blog entry. He spent much of the day working (or should I say "playing") with it.

Google's Picasa is where the pictures we use in the blog end up. This is the server they come from. I noticed they provide a lot of space for picture storage (1 gig) and allow extended captions, which they use from the pictures title. Also, the pictures can be positioned using Google Maps so you can show exactly where (if you can find the place, it works better in urban US areas over say try to find El Divisidero) the picture was taken. The feature that was of most interest was the newly announced one. You can upload an album of pictures (and resize) from iPhoto. This is a nice plus as the blogger method was to upload each picture say 4 at a time. Slow and you have to resize them. using Picasa I was able to fill an album with pictures then go away and let them upload, nice. Features you lose: are the ease of positioning text and picture alignment. That is how the text flows around the picture and how picture situate in the blog. I'll use it on the rest of this blog for sure. I need to find out what the cost us when we fill the one gig limit it comes with.

I spent much of the day in the hotel's courtyard garden painting. Great place to paint – two fountains, big agave plants, apple trees, small pear trees, many blooming rose bushes, big squirrels, huge black birds, morning doves and friendly gardeners. Oh, and immaculately groomed grass, come to think of it we need a gardener at home.

We went downtown for a late lunch and Ken let me lead the way to the restaurant – mistake on his part. I was totally lost so we had an even later lunch. We ate at the seafood restaurant again. Ken ordered halves of avocado stuffed with mayo, cilantro and shrimp.

For the rest of the day Ken blogged and I painted. A quiet relaxing day.


Tuesday August 5
Today I was finally motivated and organized enough to start painting on cloth. Yes, I did bring cloth, fabric inks and everything needed to paint on fabric. Ken is lucky I did not somehow manage to squeeze in a small sewing machine and thread. I actually have one machine that requires no electricity and is run by a hand crank. I was not sure I would use the inks because I did want to actually get started on daily sketching and using water colors. Daily is not exactly what is happening but I did manage to start doing work in each of my two Moleskin journals. I find sketching hard to fit into my regular day to day activities. I feel distracted by life and do not remember I have the small Moleskin with me. I believe if I could just be really conscious of trying to sketch and paint more often for a while then it would become more routine. This routine would make it more part of daily life. By the way, I do love to sketch and paint. It is just finding the time which is not an excuse in my way of thinking. It is just a state of mind. I have lots of time, just to use it doing the things I want to do.
There is my piece of philosophy for the week.

I decided to paint a photo of artichokes I took earlier in our journey. Stupidly, I also chose to not wear suntan lotion and got a burn just hanging out by the van. Again my arms received a burn.

Ken discovered Picasa by Google. It is a way to post your photos on the web and manage them. You can designate on Google maps the photos location. It is very handy for reminding or showing where a certain photo was taken. Great discovery!

It is awkward painting outside or in the van, but I am really enjoying it so I am willing to continue on. I feel doing all the watercolor painting lately has assisted my cloth painting skills.

We ate lunch at the hotel's restaurant . It was totally devoid of the patrons. Not a good sign in a restaurant. The food was ok. They served crusty (or should I say hard) white buns and Saltine crackers instead of taco chips. Some restaurants that are a bit more classy do this here in Mexico. Oh, and they do not provide butter.

After 8:00 pm we dressed up warm and walked to town for supper. We returned to the great little restaurant with the courtyard and the $2.10 rice and beans. We brought a taxi back because it was late. We have only been paying $2.00 for a taxi ride. They always offer to give back change. I wonder exactly how much it actually is. I seems pretty cheap compared to Canada.


Monday August 4
We got a late start because we slept in and it felt great. It was going to be a lazy day because Ken wanted to work on the blog and he was not sure he felt one hundred percent. The big Festival was ending today and the dancers, etc. were leaving the hotel by the bus loads. The hotel will likely return to quiet once again.

Once we got going we saw a guy driving a SUV with a side-wall separation like we had never seen before. This is what Pepe the van originally went in to get fixed. It was the size of a cantaloupe. We laughed about how big it was, wondered how long it would last and how it would actually pop. I thought he should not take it on the highway. Ken laughed and thought that the first corner would pop it. We were half a block away and it burst, wow was it was loud.

We discovered a new restaurant that was on the main drag – Hidalgo. It has a courtyard. Ken liked that beer was only $1.50 and it had rice and beans for $2.10. We will return.

Back to our agenda. We wondered the streets looking for a copy place, an extension cord, limes, juice, a mask for bus fumes and saline (as a nose wash) for the same bus fumes. We found it all in a district we seem to frequent often.








We bought out umbrellas here earlier. This area has the best produce so far and also a fine selection of Goth accessories should you require them. I acquired a good sunburn thinking I had built up enough sun time that I wouldn't burn. Ken now thinks he has a cold. We headed back to the van. I drew a big agave plant, I think that is what it is called. Ken worked on the blog.

Now that we have an extension cord we watched a movie that Ken bought at a yard sale in the States. We were pleased with how the computer played the movie. It was quiet, and most of all, the lip movement matched the words.

Zacatecas, Zacatecas - thank the Heavens for Zacatecas (week one)

Sunday August 3
We headed to the Market and found Ana and her table of leather bound books. She did finish our travel log in leather, it even has a leather bookmark. We took her picture and she wanted a copy e-mailed to her. It is amazing that we did the whole transaction with her speaking only Spanish and us speaking only English.




Ken was feeling sick feeling today and took five Pepto – we are blaming the previous greasy taco, the Parral water or some warmish egg roll consumed the day before. Ken worked on the blog in the morning and we headed down the hill to town in the afternoon.

Next on the agenda, we went to buy a mouse for Ken to speed up work on the blog. The store Copple sold items on credit with payment options. It was set up like old Consumers Distributing and easily handled the transaction.

We discovered that the extremely adorable pooch near the bakery, hangs out (lives is not the right word as they are set up on the concrete bench outside the church) with the church beggar man. The dog sleeps on a blanket with a cardboard box for shelter. He appears well fed and loved. He is loyal to the old man.







We ate supper at the Cafe Acropolis. A nice restaurant with pictures of famous people that have eaten there, we saw Jane Fonda and Gregory Peck's pictures from a shoot they did in the area in 1988 for a movie called The Gringo. Well, maybe Jane got good food but we are not going back, we give it a two thumbs down.



Ken just wasn't feeling well and I was tired so we spent the evening laying around in the van. We were early to bed this night. Loud banging sounds woke
us up around 11 that night. It was the end of the International Festival. We woke up to fireworks going off right outside our rear van window. They were so close, very amazing, bright and loud. There is zero wait time between the bang and the fireworks at this distance. The van actually shook when they would launch a big one. Again, only in Mexico. The next day we found the gun powder pellets scattered around the street the next block from us.


Saturday August 2
We, of course, didn't get going as quickly as possible in the morning. This was the day of the 7 kilometre hike to Guadalupe, the next town to us.


But once started we walked a very short distance to the Teleferico (cable car) which would transport us over the city of Zacatecas to La Bufa.

















You could see the patchwork, which is the city of Zacatecas. Once arriving at La Bufa we could tell it was a powerful spot. This was the battleground where the Mexican army led by Poncho Villa overtook the Huerta loyalists (dictator's army).






We trekked on down the hill to the other side going towards Guadalupe, not having a back road map we were not sure where to go. Ken thinks I stepped off the path and several rattle snake rattled their tail. We walked on a 1,000 year old stone road. Which was a nice find in the middle of what seemed like no where.

















After walking for what seemed like a very long time we stumbled on the grounds where the circus was parked. There was a darling dromedary (one humped camel to those of you who could care less about the exact name). He had the biggest, knowing eyes. He actually wanted to be petted. The big cats just had their cages washed and they were sliding on the metal, wet surface. The animals were obviously well cared for and likely loved. The dromedary was a sensitive soul who needed extra attention and love.

















Somehow on this journey we stumbled on another good find along the way. It was a park, no traffic, no fumes. The park had a bike, road park for teaching children bike safety. This took us all the way to Guadalupe.





Guadalupe is a rancher's town. We wanted to leave almost as soon as we got there, of course we had just walked seven to ten kilometers. The one thing we did enjoy was drinking and eating coconut out of the big, recently downed coconut. I had never had such a thing before. oh yes the pile of wool next to the spinning wheel and loom was neat.







We were tired from the walking and sat down accross the street from the big church in Guadalupe, sure enough a wedding was going on, we waited to see the bride arrive.







We took the bus back to Zacatecas. The bus had curtains inside to block out the heat. The bus driver did have change and a cross with Jesus on it attached to his sun-visor, and the ride was only $.35 each. Other than that it was pretty much the same as a bus ride in Canada, oh except the driver drove like a madman with both doors open.





We somehow found our way to the little Italian restaurant we liked so much – La Traviata. It gets a two thumbs up (price, menu, setting, service, bathrooms, and of course the food). I even had the same dish with prawns.





We took a taxi up the hill. I practically collapsed in the taxi I was so tired. We did try to walk home so we caught the taxi part way up the hill. Foolish Canadians.




Friday August 1
Today, Ken gave the final shipping instructions for our van parts from Austin, Texas. We decided to hike east from our hotel wondering around a part of the city we hadn't yet been to. We ended up downtown. I realized I absolutely had to wear a hat even if hat head was the outcome, better than baked brain. Then we realized we were hungry and there was nothing to eat but candy, chips or pop. They have very small stores in the residential area like we used to have in Canada. We stumbled in the heat to the area of restaurants, we were very hungry and decided to eat in a greasy taco restaurant. By greasy, I mean deep fried, he fills the taco up cheese and all, then into the deep fryer. The atmosphere was not of cleanth, luckily the bathroom was out of order preventing me from even going in. We settled for this booth of a restaurant because of posters (great art work) that had been hand printed and taped on the wall, Ken figured is the artist liked the place, we thought it must be ok. The food did taste good.

We had a siesta at the Franciscan Monks restored building. I looked at glasses again.





















We found a great place that sold cakes and other pastries along with a very adorable pooch. The church pooch was wearing a dirty t-shirt, heaven only knows why, because it was rather warm that day. More to come on the cute pup and the bakery that Ken loves (cappuccino and a cake 26 pesos).

Just after, we ate supper at a high class restaurant – Sanborns – I was sick. The greasy taco likely being the culprit. A late supper at Sanborns gave us a balcony to see the traffic on Hidalgo Street.






Thursday July 31
We ate out in the hotel's garden as usual.












I painted another rose and Ken ordered the van part from Austin, Texas. We took our laundry in. When we finally got going, we walked from one end of downtown to the other.











We ate lunch at a higher class seafood restaurant, which was on the second floor called La Gaviota. You could look out of the open window onto the street below. The waiter brought out two creamy sauces and three bottled home-made sauces to try - exquisite. After we dined, the wind blew the doors on the window open and tossed napkins, etc. all around. Someone at the table next to us said, "they speak English". Another said, "That is our north wind, it blows cold." We found out they were family visitors from California and were sitting with the restaurant owner. We got the low down on where to go for silver, dining and tequila drinking on the back of a burro (we passed on the drunken burro thing. Our reasoning was – do we want to get drunk with a bunch of people we don't know and can't speak to, although maybe ...).



We caught another Folk Festival (really Donna just needed to use the bathroom - ed.) show with Mexican formal dancing.

I was seriously trying to find glasses, they are supposed to be cheaper in Mexico. Some places the frames do seem cheaper, in others they seem the same, we don't know about the lens yet.

In the evening we wondered up the hills in the residential area. Everyone seemed to be okay with us being there. In fact, we met a man who introduced himself as a guide. He had the most wonderful way of saying good bye – "Zacatecas is you house". He was welcoming us to his city and wanted us to feel at home. We stayed out late because it was not raining.



Wednesday July 30
We started the day with breakfast out in the centre courtyard of the hotel. The gardener (was telling us, we think) the sprinklers were coming on and we would get wet. We were done eating so decided to head back to the van, on the way I leaned over to smell one of the many roses in the grounds. As we walked away I heard "damas, damas" looking back I saw the gardener pluck a bright red rose and hold it out for me. The staff here is so nice. I went back to the van and sketched and painted the rose. Ken working on the computer was finding parts for the van.

In Mexico we have found virtually no coin laundries. You either get for free at hotels or take it in for someone else to wash, dry and fold. We had found such a laundry suitable and close enough that we could take it down the hill to be washed. Here they charge only 14 pesos per kilogram. We took our first load in.

We hiked around lots that day, being distracted by everything, wondering in and out of shops aimlessly killing the day.



The Folk Festival was on and we took in another show.



We toured the Cultural Centre of Zacatecas. It was located in a museum type of building that was huge. One gallery was full of very, very old religious painting. The other galleries houses Huichol artifacts – very colorful.















We got really tired from walking and paid $4.00 each to ride on a bus for twenty minutes. We listened in Spanish to the history of the town – learned nothing. As we were on the top deck of a double decker bus we had to duck to miss the overhead wires.


Tuesday July 29
We talked to the German couple at the next campsite. They were heading back to Mexico City to fly home to Germany. She taught German in Mexico City last year. They had left their big, old truck in Mexico and flew back to holiday here. The man was saying it would be difficult to sell his truck because the Mexican's only purchase on payment. They told us of the other Hotel del Bosques that was quite nice.

We drove back to the tire dealer to find out if they could get the parts to fix the van. They couldn't! They told us if we got the parts they could install them. So it begins.

We decided to switch to a different camping area (the other Hotel del Bosques) because it was quieter and closer to the old town centro. Ken spent most of the day finding out about the repair and where to get the parts from. Luckily this new place has good internet.

I am sketching a painting a cactus that is in front of the hotel. I can't stay outside and sketch because the shade disappeared. It is very hot in the sun. Around supper we hike downtown passed the cable car to the centro. We took pictures along the way so as to not become lost. We walked about three and a half hours in total. We started out the walk after visiting a huge, baroque church. The church was from the 1700s. We stopped and said a prayer.






We got stuck in a down pour and bought a pair of umbrellas.









Monday July 28
We started the day going into two different tire places trying to get our side-wall tire separation replaced. We found a suitable place with a manager that spoke a little English, plus the lead mechanic's name was Pepe. Before the actual work was started we went for lunch rather than wait our turn at the garage. We went for lunch at a place called Bodega Aurrera (think Superstore). We returned to the garage and ate our lunch while they changed the tire on the van. I painted an artichoke. Ken had the mechanic remove the right front tire and brakes and spin the wheel. SURE ENOUGH THE WHEEL BEARING WAS BROKEN. I'll let Ken describe the gory details of getting parts for a van while traveling in Mexico.

We decided to tourist it up a bit for the rest of the day. I got to touch the tail of a cheetah. His tail was sticking out of the truck that advertised the circus and drove around the city.





We went to the museum of abstract art. Ken described it as very mechanical.













We hiked downtown to a park and to Alameda Park. Zacatecas is having its huge annual international folk festival this week with dancers and musicians from all over the world. What we saw that night were very Spanish, Mexican dancers.


Sunday July 27
We had breakfast with Mamo (the man) and Francquois (the woman) who camped right beside us. They come from the same city as Frida Kahlo, Francquois spoke French, German, Spanish and some English. Mamo order my breakfast which had cut up big green cactus leaves (napole) in a red hottish sauces on fried eggs – delicious. He ordered the sauce mild just for my tender Canadian taste buds. Ken was able to really communicate with them because he took years of French in school. They had travelled to Vancouver Island previously, so we had lots to talk about. She was an elementary school teacher like me.

After saying our farewells we went for a drive in the country then into centro of Zacatecas. I even wore my hat so as to not bake my brain. We saw many cobblestone streets with homes built on hills. It is similar to Guanajuato but smaller, less people, less people bugging you. We found parking quickly on a back road near the international hostel.











We walked to their big cathedral (Santo Damingo);





then got out looking for a particular restaurant which is Los Doradas De Villa (we nicknamed it "No Soup for You" because they were turning groups of people away for reasons we did not understand).



This restaurant locked its doors. We couldn't get in and sat on a bench in front of the doors thinking we were the first in line.



A group of Mexicans came by claiming to have a reservation. After pounding on the door and some discussion they were turned away, "no soup for you". Ken attracted the attention of the man behind the open door and stated, "dos Canadiennes". We were seated in what I can only describe as an immaculate combination of artistry and design, Mexican style.

The meal was fabulous. I ordered the Zacatecas enchiladas. The meal came with the standard nacho chips and we ordered guacamole which, when the waiter delivered, he loaded my first chip with an artistic flare (fried cactus, tomato, cilantro mix). He showed us he loved his work. We will return if they will let us in.









We went for a walk after eating.









We saw, only in Mexico, a lion and a tiger in the back of a truck advertising the circus was in town. I am sure there will be more to come about this event. We happened upon one of the many events on for the International Folk Festival.