Friday, February 27, 2015
This sky was overcast today, so it was cooler.
The day was however still quite hot. We did not get out till it was time to go out for lunch. We went to a called Los 2 Toros Yucatecos Comida Regional. The comida corrida for the day was breaded fish and it was so delicious, cooked to perfection. The salad had a type of pickled red onion on top of it. The black beans were very soupy and came in a bowl. They must have had some extra spice or herb in them. They were extremely tasty as was the rice that had garlic in it. The menu is quite reasonable but did not have much in the line of true vegetarian cuisine.
Casa de Montejo on the south side of the Plaza Grande was our next stop. This grand old building originally housed soldiers and was built in 1549. The Montejo family took over the house soon after it was built made it their's until the 1970s. Today there is a bank and a museum with the permanent collection of renovated Victorian neorococo and neorenaissance furnishings of the historic building. This is a not to be missed exhibit if you want to get a peek into the lives of the aristocrats that first lived in Merida. The outside the building is also of interest. There are statues guarding the door, attached to the outside wall, and they are standing on the heads of the people of the Yucatan people that they were overtaking at the time. As is classic of the time period, the façade of the conquistadors is bigger then the people they conquered.
Then right next-door, right off the same courtyard is the Haciendas del Mundo Maya Boutique - Programa De Apoyo al Arte Popular, Grande Maestros De Arte Popular. This is sort of a cross between a museum and a store because you can buy the items. It houses books about Mexican artist's, but mostly it houses the art of preeminent, folk artists of the area.
The courtyard had a most unusual tree growing in it. It had round, hard, green globes growing both from branches and from twigs. We had no idea what it was until we looked it up on Google. I do believe it is called a Calabash Tree. Rather unusual looking would you not say?
The City Museum was next on our agenda. It used to be the post office for Merida. It was in a very lively, busy part of the city, a gain south of the main plaza, in another gem of a colonial building. The main floor, permanent collection was a mixture of religious art, models of older buildings in Merida, along with models of the city layout. It also included from the past clothing, dishes, pottery, parts of old buildings, old signs, etc. it also had a great deal of information about the city in both Spanish and English.
Upstairs was art with various salons and various artists. Some artists from the area had their own room or rooms containing collections of their work. The main artist where Fernando Castro Pacheco and Manuel Lizama. Castro's work was very impressive and he had work in different medias, mostly paint. He is still creating right here in Merida.
Saturday, February 28, 2015
Ken woke up with sore lungs.
We thought it could be the blue, bleachy, slowly disintegrating toilet bowl cleaner. The bathroom did emanate the smell of bleach. The housekeeper removed this blue menus and we will see how things go for tomorrow.
Mais, Canel and Cilantro Restaurante (has veggie options on the comida each day) was where we were lucky enough to eat lunch. We met John and Heather from Ottawa. To find out more about this charming, little restaurant go to Tuesday, February 24 or Sunday, March 1. I am sure we well return as often as possible.
Ken was not feeling well so we did not do much during the day. We find that we have to keep out of the heat from about one or two until about four or five. I do not know if this is the type of heat you get used to. Keep in mine the stereo type of Mexican people taking a siesta in the afternoon is a fact. Businesses are even closed and reopen later in the day.
In the evening we decided to try out a new place called Restaurante Mariposa. It is housed in an old school. We talked to the owner who is a pilot. Him and his wife have spent several years renovating this beautiful, big, old building. It was obvious that the work put into it was a labour of love. It is complete with the original stencilling left near the eighteen foot high ceilings. The wife has carefully chosen colours and furnishings to compliment the style and function of the space. The owner has restored the doors himself, he has resorted to doing much of the work himself as he wanted good craftsmanship to show through, and it does. The prices are reasonable and I would highly recommend this place.
Sunday, March 1, 2015
Today Ken woke up feel less then himself, again, in other words he is feeling quite ill.
Sore lungs are the main problem, but he is thinking he likely has contracted a cold. Nothing worse than feeling sick when you are in an action packed vacation spot like Merida. We did not do much today, really. However, we somehow managed to walk about 10 kilometres.
We made the crazy mistake of wanting to go out for breakfast. This desire can go either way - a delicious desayuno (breakfast) or cause problems because somehow our plan fails. Today somehow both events happened. We wanted to go for a vegetarian omelette at a veggie restaurant we had gone to recently - Maiz, Canela y Cilantro. We arrived there shortly after nine AM. The staff had just arrived and did not open on Sunday until 10:00 AM. Opps, there went our plan of eating early on a Sunday morning and our veggie omelette idea.
Off we went to downtown. Ken remember is not feeling well, especially his lungs. He manages to walk to a restaurant downtown, we are seated, look at the menu and realize we still really want to eat at the little veggie place. Ken and I get up and leave - kind of awkward but necessary. By this time the little Maiz, Canela y Cilantro place is open and has customers. They are only serving a special comida, ok we can live with that. We are starving by this time so, whatever! The kitchen is bustling with not only the previous cook but about half a dozen or so other cooks and young girls. We realize the comida is a Pre-Hispanic feast with featured dishes from the area of Teothican (an ancient Mexican city near Mexico City). Most of the waitresses and cooks were dressed in white, local, dresses trimmed with beautiful embroidered flowers, cinched with embroidered belts.
The food - superb. If something does not go our way in Mexico Ken likes to think that Mexico planned it that way. I certainly felt that was the case this morning. We left the other restaurant were we would have had a perfectly acceptable meal for a Pre-Hispanic feast or event. We had a type of drink called Tamarindo, an agua fresca made from the seed pods of the Tamarind tree (do not know if that was authentically Pre-Hispantic). The other option was a drink made from ground almonds and it seemed a little thick, so we passed on it. The drinks were served in the hard shell of a round vegetable. I had a veggie option and Ken had mola chicken. We had all the other items the same. I wish I had the recipes for these delights. We had tamales, a stew made of chaya (greens) and squash, a tomato based veggie dish, squash seed dish, black bean and a dish made from a green skinned squash and corn. Each dish had a unique flavour that was new to us both. We were also served three different types of tortillas, one made of blue corn. In the end we were served candied fruit, similar to dried fruit in Canada, but this was not dried. I was also served a cup of cafe ole, a cinnamon like, sweet coffee. Altogether this was one of the tastiest meals of the trip.
I must mention that near the end of the meal the cook from the previous day walked around with a clay incense burner and copal. She was sure to walk around each person, as if to cleans the spirit. It was a refreshing experience. When we left a big table of Mexican people all said good bye to us a wished us well in Spanish.
Monday, March 2, 2015
Today Ken woke up sick with a cold.
He has been feeling a bit off for the past few days but today he can really say it is a cold. Previously he thought it was one of those blue, bleach things that get put in he toilet. He thought the bleach was affecting his lungs.
We did not do much today. I worked at trying to figure out the work flow only my Diva4Quilts blog again. Ken, sick as he was, gave me a hand because he is much more able with the techi side of things than I am.
One it started to cool off we decided we needed to get some exercise. For us a walk is the greatest cure. Anyway once it was cooler that is what we wanted to do. We went on a different street from the Hotel Santa Ana to Chedraui, one running parallel to Paseo Montejo and just west of it. We saw some great old, colonial buildings. Some even had front yards which is quite unusual in Mexico. They have zoning which allows for zone lot lines. Most people build right up to the property line. Some of these grand, old buildings were still huge but have yards. One Victorian old, beauty even had a turret. We saw one building that had been painted with pictures of a Mayan from long ago and other people, with birds, etc. It was quite wonderful. One building, perhaps a school had a lovely fountain in front with blooming waterlilies.
Our actual venture into the supermercado was not that exciting but the walk there was quite special, the way back was on the Paseo Montejo. We always seem to find this to be a relaxing walk with the horses and carriages walking by.
This walk was a bit too much for Ken. He ended up feeling worse from doing too much when he was first coming down with a cold.
Tuesday, March 3, 2015
This was a mostly staying at the Hotel kind of day.
Ken woke up even sicker than yesterday. He laid around and watched TV (Netflix) most of the day. He is certainly entitled to since he is sick. He hardly ever does that laying around thing even when he is sick.
I worked at getting my Diva4quilts blog up and running again. My idea is to make posts recording art that I have found in different areas of Mexico. Much to my chagrin I am unable to do little art myself at this particular time. I really do not have suitable space in the Hotel we are in. Taking pictures and being inspired keeps me in that artistic side of my brain. Sometimes it is not enough. It, however, will just have to do for now. I do not believe that producing Art is about forcing yourself to under difficult circumstances. Art can be about being inspired and getting that creative part of yourself in good shape.
We ate both lunch and supper at Al Jardin de Santa Ana Restaurante. It is the little place that you have to ask for the vegetarian menu. Lunch was Vegetarian Enchiladas with Mole. Mole is something rather new for me because usually mole is served with a meat dish. This poblano mola sauce was dowsed over corn tortillas stuffed with vegetables. Ken had some kind of pork cutlet with rice and veggies. Mango agua was our drink for the meal. Both of us were impressed with the quality of the meal and the service. The garden setting was impressive also.
We spent sometime trying to work on my WordPress blog. Trying to set up a work flow, either for the App on the iPhone or the App on the iPad. I want to be able to down load re-sized pictures and take them off my iPhone. Anyway, eventually we will figure it out, correction, Ken will figure it out.
At supper we returned to Al Jardin de Santa Ana Restaurante. We really like the place but, in the situation of Ken not feeling well, it is only about two blocks away. We get to the restaurant and a Canadian couple who are also staying at the Hotel but are from Brandon, Manitoba are sitting at the restaurant enjoying some wine. Shortly after we arrive another Canadian from Pender Island arrives for supper. It is now dark and much cooler then it has been. We ate a big meal for lunch so we both enjoy a vegetarian version Yucatan lime soup. That is all we needed for supper, plus the conversation of some other travelling, Mexican loving Canadians.
Wednesday, March 4, 2015
Ken continues to be sick with a rotten cold.
I think me getting the cold is eminent. We are in the same hotel room much of the day. We have to have the air conditioner on constantly and much of the time we have a fan on, too. This weather is very new to us. You go out for any kind of walk and you roast. By that I mean it is like walking into an oven when you go outside. You come back at lunch and you are so sweaty and exhausted. The exhausted part is likely because we are not used to heat like this. I am not complained just letting you know about the heat. The locals wear pants or jeans like they are not even hot. I do see some of them wiping their brow of sweat.
Likely because of the heat we are not too hungry. Nachos are enough so we walk in the shade to Mariposa for lunch. Where I lived in the "rain forest" of a gulf island, we did everything to walk in the sun. The sun was soaked up and treasured. Here locals and gringos alike walk in any sliver of shade, especially mid-day. Shade and cool breezes are treasured. Not that those here do not love the sun and the warmth, but the sun at mid day will leave you just way too hot to find it enjoyable. The Mariposa is where we had nachos last. It was an old school repurposed to be a wonderful, relaxing restaurant.
At supper we went to Rescoldos Mediterranean Bistro. We were lucky last time we were able to eat our pizza out the garden. Not this time, we should have made reservations. We ate in one of the front rooms. It was noisy and not as pleasant as the garden. Ken has oral allergy syndrome and has a big list of things that trigger the allergic reaction. Wine, garlic, apples and walnuts being a few things from the list. He had wine for supper, homemade several cheese ravioli covered in apples and walnuts, along with garlic in his Caesar salad dressing. It was all good but a recipe for disaster allergy wise. He was not a happy camper when he returned home and had allergies along with his cold. Much cough and nose blowing happened.
Yes, today was a pretty ho hum day that is why all I am blogging about is food and eating. Not everyday can be exciting even on holidays.
Thursday, March 5, 2015
Ken was really sick when we woke up in the morning.
His cold is really hanging in there and not getting much better. It might be getting a little worse. That means I will be working on my personal blog again, getting work flow started again and trying to perhaps add a slideshow viewer like Smilebox.
After working for hours on the blog we decide we had better go for lunch. We go to the vegetarian restaurant Maiz, Canel y Cilantro. We had enjoyed the food so much on Sunday. They do not have a menu, the girl comes and tells you in Spanish what is for comida. I heard pescado and decided to have that instead of the veggie option. - mistake. Ken was smart and stuck with the veggie option of lentil burgers, salad and rice. My meal arrived. It was a whole fish, eyes, gills, scales, etc. It looked like a rubber fish I use with fabric paint to make prints. I was appalled. I sat there stunned for a minute. Then I took it back to the kitchen and talked to the girl with some English. She realized I did not want the fish and offered to bring out the veggie option. We left a big tip. I know that is the way fried fish is served sometimes in Mexico but I did not think it would be served in such a manner in this restaurant.
We had walked further than I realized to get to that restaurant. We found an art space on our lengthy way back. Funcation de Artistas had only been open for about six days. It was housed in a huge, old, colonial home that has been somewhat refurbished. The paint or wallpaper has been scraped or worn off, which looked for arty I think. It is an art space for up and coming artists, local, national and international. It has several places for artists in residence to stay. It will have a coffee shop. Right now it has the work of Marcela Diaz. She is local and uses sisal thread to make textile art, part sculpture, part woven. This space, being relatively new aspires to also have artists do workshops in this huge, wonderful space. The person they are renting from said that this house was his family home for many decades and was very pleased to have the Funcation de Artistas in his home.
Supper was light as neither of us felt like leaving the room for food.
Friday, March 6, 2015
Not a stellar day because Ken is not feeling well.
He is better than he was but then that is not saying much. I am not feeling great either. I have to take it easy or I will find myself in the same situation as Ken.
We venture forth for lunch to the El Jardin de Santa Ana Restuarant. We did not eat much because we will not be expending many calories. We had the same old veggie chorizo and potato tacos plus fruit drink.
It took Ken hours to figure out and download the proper App or whatever so I can make a slideshow of pictures on my Diva4quilts blog. I was busy too trying to sort through the hundreds of Apps available and make an informed decision. First I had to figure out what I wanted then look for an App that had those features. Who knew it would take so long.
I took several naps trying to ward off that awful cold. I am doing everything to prevent what might be my inevitable illness. I am not eating any sugar as I am quite sure I read that sure suppresses the immune system. I am taking vitamin C and En Chaio a Chinese herbal concoction. I am taking it easy.
Later on when it got cool Ken wanted to walk to Walmart or Chedraui. I was reluctant because of how I felt but I figured I could just turn around and walk back or take a bus back. I did feel fine in the end. It was not an eventful walk, just pleasant. Ken was feeling better so that was nice. We were able to see the big Monument to the Flag lite up. That was special.
Saturday, March 7, 2015
This was another day of being somewhat sick.
Ken is still quite sick with a cough, etc. I know, not a great way to start off a blog post but that is how we feel around here.
I work on my blog. I again have to enlist Ken's assistance because when it comes to the techi side of the blog I am still in the learning process. I am trying to install a plug-in that produces a slideshow. I decided what I wanted (which is not small effort), have it installed, but the picture aspect ratio has to be figured out. Ken helped me make two slideshows - for horizontal pictures (landscape) and for vertical pictures (portrait). Lots of time and effort, but I think worth it. Next time I will be more careful if I am somewhere that I know I will be taking lot of pictures for a slideshow. I will take the pictures with my camera in either a horizontal or vertical manner.
We ate a wonderful lunch a El Jardin de Santa Ana - our usual potato and chirizo tacos. Then we walked.
Sunday, March 8, 2015
Being somewhat unfamiliar with Merida we had to look up where to go for breakfast on a Sunday.
We discovered the Hotel Colonial had a great place and it was reasonably priced. We walked down Calle 60 and realized it was closed to traffic. The locals were riding their bikes in groups, family and otherwise down the street. Other locals were casually meandering along perhaps heading to one of the restaurants that had put chairs out one the closed road. This also gave the horses and the carriages they pull a better space to walk in. We walked by the Library and saw that there had obviously been a big party. There were paper plates, cups and other garbage littering the streets. NOB we would usually have many garbage can provided in a situation like this. Here, different culture, the mess is left and someone is paid a meager wage to clean up. Just different than what we are used to.
Walking down the road we saw buildings that we never noticed before, old, colonial buildings that have seen better days. We checked out other restaurants along the way. Finally, we were hungry, we arrived at our destination, Hotel Colonial for breakfast. It was served buffet style. Something different and very welcoming was when the waiter came to get us from the lobby the table was set for us. Really set, coffee and juice poured and waiting for us. We also had a basket on sweet buns waiting for us. The buffet, which we had previously inspected, was quite meat oriented. Almost everything had meat in it. They did have an omelette bar so I was ok with a vegetarian omelette. The buffet was 95 pesos, which all in all is a good deal for coffee, juice, fruit, buns, then main course. They also provided a dessert - flan, chocolate mousse, etc.
We went on a walk afterwards to the area of the City Museum and the Lucas de Galvez Market. I always like to see the flowers and the fruit and veggies in the market. On the way back we saw a pet store. We saw young turkeys in a cage that were for sale.
Mostly I worked on my other blog and Ken concentrated on getting better by laying around doing nothing. Whiles downstairs in the common area I met a visitor from Tennessee - Richard. He comes to Merida to assist him in learning Spanish.
We went to a familiar restaurant for supper. Cafe La Habana was great value. You get good service and good food. What can be better and we spent under 90 pesos for supper.
Monday, March 9, 2015
Ken seemed to wake up to day in very good spirits.
Poor guy has not been able to do much lately as this cold really took a hold of him. We had planned to go do something different today. We wanted to drive the van to some neighbourhoods that we can not walk to. Leaving a vehicle sit for any length of time is not doing it any favours, so off we go on an adventure with Pepe (the van).
Ken has Google Maps set to a courier company. He has some paper to be sent up to Canada. The fee is far more than expected but it will arrive at its expected destination.
It took us so long to get going that it is lunch time already. We eat in the mall we are in at a little place called Wok to Walk. A bit clique but whatever. It was the most excited I had been in awhile over food for several reasons. This place was like a Mexican version of a restaurant we frequented in Victoria, BC called The Noodle Box. At Wok to Walk you decide on your extra ingredients and sauces. It even came in a little Chinese food take-out box. My excitement came from getting to have tofu as an ingredient, no explaining why a vegetarian would be super excited about that but I have not had it for months and months. I was able to have Sriracha is sauce which again I have not had for months and months. My best buddy Alix serves it at her on eggs and many other things. I don't think I have had the pleasure of Sriracha sauce since last time at her home in early September. Our food arrived and it was fantastic! Then the icing on the cake - they have a franchise in Guadalajara. Overall the best lunch for awhile.
We went to the Liverpool Mall. In the middle they have an ice skating rink with kids have figure skating lessons. Great stores like Sally Beauty Supplies, etc. We also went to some kind of Chedraui superstore. The parking lot was so big it had its own glorietta (traffic circle). I have never seen so many shopping carts together in one place. This supermercado must get super busy on the weekend.
Any neighbourhoods we visited were well kept and clean. The homes were very much the same as the one beside it. Some were painted different colours. In some areas they kept up the very wide street idea with trees. The neighbourhoods we visited were some of the nicest that we have seen in Mexico.
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Ken is sure having a rough time with his cold.
He will wake up in the night as soon as his cough medicine wears off and cough until he the next batch of medicine takes over. Thankfully my cold has stayed mostly a head cold.
I really wanted to go on the house and garden tour of the Merida English Library. I walked there and did the tour. The approximately twenty of us either Americans, Canadians or Europeans took the tour together but first met in the garden. A knowledgeable expat to Merida filled us in on the colonial homes. The old homes had super thick walls made of the local limestone rock and had up to twenty foot ceilings. This was a way of combating the heat. The ceilings or roofs were either built using wood beams or the light railways ties from the fading henequen industry. The type of walls or beam is a way to discover the age of a home in Merida. She talked of the front of the house being most important at one time and it usually had the highest ceilings. As you went back through the usually long, narrow homes the less important the space was until you were in the yard at the back where the animals hung out. Now that outside is very important as often there are pools and patio garden at the back. Sometimes the ceiling also became low the father back you went because those were the newer areas. She also talked of the colourful pasta tiles which were popular in Europe. The ships that took the henequen to Europe brought back these tiles and roof tiles as ballast. Both ended up being copied and made here in Merida. The stone walls were plastered over and painted with a type of white coating called cal, thus the nickname for Merida - the white city.
The four homes we went to visit were wonderful examples of modern, revisited homes. The first one the lady did not allow pictures. She did not want to change it much from how it was, she just improved on the home. She added an indoor kitchen and bathrooms. There was a pool around back. You could really see the long narrow profile of the house, being able to see from the entrance way to the back. One home was a virtual redo, the front rooms all really the whole home retained the old, Mexican character as much as possible. It had an above ground pool that had a certain graciousness about it. The next home was Art Deco in style. Only the front of the house retained that era. A clever architect had seamlessly added on a modern back area with lovely pool and patio garden. The last home the present owner had lived in for about ten years. Again it had a pool and garden area. It had a spiral staircase to take you upstairs but it was outside. Then you had another staircase to take up up to another roof. Each home had its own character and charm. It was so special to be allowed to see into the homes of other expats and see what was important to them when they decided to purchase down here in the Yucatan.
Wednesday, March 11, 2015
Today Ken woke up not feeling that well.
This cold seems to hang on. You have times of feeling better then feeling worse. Ugh, not pleasant. Ken is having a not feeling so great time today.
I worked on my Diva4quilts blog most of the day. I am doing a rather in depth post of the homes I visited yesterday on the Home and Garden tour based out of the Merida English Library.
Thursday, March 12, 2015
Ken wanted to go out for breakfast today to the Bistro Cultural. Our last breakfast out was not that styling and we needed a good experience. This bistro was in an old home and the parking lot beside it made over for guests. Both had art on the walls which made the place very welcoming. The home itself was an old colonial and had interesting doors and windows. There were two different garden areas to be seated in. The tables had pasta tiles used as mosaics on the tops. We were about their first guests of the day and we later realized that the chef was our waiter. Our omelettes were with chaya and cheese inside were done to perfection. Oddly enough a salad with dressing was included on the side. We had a good experience and would return.At some point we decided to go out again and do something instead of sitting inside. We did not really realize how hot it was outside as we have been laying pretty low in the afternoons. By the time we walked downtown to the Cafe Habana for lunch we were melted. That place is very well air conditioned. Wow, was it hot. We left, wandered around some more looking for a particular museum. On our way we saw a shop that sold sewing machines, all sorts of sewing machine parts and sewing related equipment, from industrial to the home sewing aficionado. I found that interesting. At last we found the Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatan because Google failed us in its attempt to locate that museum. The house itself was built at the beginning of the 20th century for members of the Molina family. The house was built by a father, a rich henequen merchant and later a governor of the Yucatan, and given to his daughter and new son-in-law on the event of their marriage. The building must have been spectacular in its day - marble stair case, stained glass windows, tall, carved wooden doors and windows, etc. It was opulent and glorious. Now this beauty is a museum supporting the arts and crafts diversity of Mexico. It is a showcase for works by Mexican artists, items made of clay, paper mache, wood, gold leaf, metals, clothing, typical suits, stone verticals, glass, musical instruments. furniture, masks, and more. It was definitely a diverse mix.
Upon leaving we realized the temperature had cooled down as the sun had been covered by clouds. It was a tolerable temperature outside. We went into the Toledo Hotel to look around. There was an art gallery housed there that lured us in. What looked like original wood work dominated the space. It appeared to an authentic hotel from the colonial period. It has lost some of its grandeur but had retained woodwork, stainedglass, arches, etc. Even had one little nook retained as an ice cream parlour of long ago, now part of a restaurant. You just never know what you will find behind those doors and walls in Mexico.
It was a day of pleasant discoveries and our next one was definitely that. Teatro Peon Contreras (the theatre downtown) had an art gallery again luring us in. There were a few wonderful pieces in the massive gallery space. The theatre building itself was huge and opulently decorated in marble. You could not wonder around the space but you were able to see the enormousness of this public space.
Evening was rather uneventful except for the supper. We had a wonderful roasted veggie, wood fire oven roasted pizza. Better than that was a young twenty something guy with a guitar and a great voice singing to us in the garden of the restaurant. He sang Pink Floyd "Wish You Were Here", Cat Stevens, etc., plus some wonderful Mexican melodies. That was a real treat!
